Ferran Adrià

Ferran Adrià
Born May 14, 1962 (1962-05-14) (age 49)
L'Hospitalet de Llobregat, Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain

Ferran Adrià i Acosta (Catalan pronunciation: [fəˈran əðɾiˈa]) is a Catalan chef born on May 14, 1962 in L'Hospitalet de Llobregat. He was the head chef of the El Bulli restaurant in Roses on the Costa Brava, and is considered one of the best chefs in the world.[1]

Contents

Career

Ferran Adrià began his culinary career in 1980 during his stint as a dishwasher at the Hotel Playafels, in the town of Castelldefels. The chef de cuisine at this hotel taught him traditional Spanish cuisine. At 19 he was drafted into military service where he worked as a cook. In 1984, at the age of 22, Adrià joined the kitchen staff of El Bulli as a line cook. Eighteen months later he became the head chef.

Along with British chef Heston Blumenthal, Adrià is often associated with "molecular gastronomy," although like Blumenthal the Catalan chef does not consider his cuisine to be of this category.[2] Instead, he has referred to his cooking as deconstructivist.[3] Adrià's stated goal is to "provide unexpected contrasts of flavour, temperature and texture. Nothing is what it seems. The idea is to provoke, surprise and delight the diner."[4] As he likes to say, "the ideal customer doesn't come to El Bulli to eat but to have an experience."

El Bulli is only open for about six months of the year (in 2010, the season was due to run from June 15 to December 20).[5] Adrià spends the remaining six months of the year perfecting recipes in his workshop "El Taller" in Barcelona. He is famous for his thirty course gourmet menu.

He is also well known for creating "culinary foam". In his quest to enhance flavour, Adrià discards the use of cream and egg; foam is made exclusively of the main ingredient and "air" (combined in a siphon bottle equipped with N2O cartridges). Adrià's foam creations include foamed espresso (Èspesso), foamed mushroom, and foamed beetroot, as well as foamed meats.

El Bulli has 3 Michelin stars and is regarded as one of the best restaurants in the world. In 2005, it ranked second in the Restaurant Top 50. It was awarded the first place in 2006, displacing The Fat Duck in Bray, England. El Bulli retained this title in 2007, 2008 and 2009, but in 2010 the title was awarded to Noma of Copenhagen, Denmark.

Adrià is the author of several cookbooks including A Day at El Bulli, El Bulli 2003-2004 and Cocinar en Casa (Cooking at Home). With his young assistant Daniel Picard, Adrià has made almonds into cheese and asparagus into bread with the help of natural ingredients.[6]

Adrià has been a featured chef on Great Chefs television.[7]

In the fall of 2010, Adrià and José Andrés will teach a culinary physics course at Harvard University.[8]

In October 2010, Adrià announces an alliance with Telefónica.[9]

Controversy

Adrià denounced his fellow 3-star Michelin cook Santi Santamaria who described his approach to cuisine as "pretentious". Traditionalist Santi Santamaria attacked Adrià's dishes in El Bulli as unhealthy, alleging that "Adrià's dishes are designed to impress rather than satisfy and used chemicals that actually put diners' health at risk". Top chefs, however, accused Santamaria, who runs the 3-star Can Fabes near El Bulli, of envy and "endangering the reputations of Spanish kitchens".[10] The criticism has split top Spanish chefs into pro- and anti-Adrià camps.[11] Unusual dishes that have been criticized include frozen whisky sour candy, white garlic and almond sorbet, tobacco-flavoured blackberry crushed ice and Kellogg's paella (Rice Krispies, shrimp heads and vanilla-flavoured mashed potatoes).

German food writer, Jörg Zipprick, accused Adrià of more or less poisoning his customers with the additives he uses in his cuisine and said that Adrià's menu should carry health warnings: "These colorants, gelling agents, emulsifiers, acidifiers and taste enhancers that Adrià has introduced massively into his dishes to obtain extraordinary textures, tastes and sensations do not have a neutral impact on health".[12]

Domestic Commercialisation

Texturas[13] is a range of products by Ferran Adrià, and his brother Albert Adrià. The products include the Sferificación, Gelificación, Emulsificación, Espesantes and Surprises lines are the result of a rigorous process of selection and experimentation. Texturas include products such as Xanthan and Algin which are packaged and labelled as Xantana Texturas and Algin Texturas respectively.[14] Xanthan gum allows the user to use a very small amount to thicken soups, sauces and creams without changing the flavour. Algin is a key component of the "Spherification Kit" and is essential for every spherical preparation: caviar, raviolis, balloons, gnocchi, pellets, and mini-spheres.[15]

Works

In October 2008, Ferran Adrià published A Day At El Bulli along with Juli Soler, and Albert Adrià. The book describes 24-hours at the El Bulli restaurant, with images, commentary, photographs and 30 recipes. Most of the recipes included are complex and require many out-of-the ordinary kitchen appliances, such as a Pacojet, freeze-dryer, liquid nitrogen tank, candyfloss machine and Perspex molds.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Ferran Adria - Bio of the World's Greatest Chef - El Bulli Restaurant Barcelona Spain". Gourmetfood.about.com. 1962-05-14. http://gourmetfood.about.com/od/chefbiographi2/p/ferranadriabio.htm. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  2. ^ Heston Blumenthal (2006-12-10). "Statement on the 'new cookery' | Life and style | The Observer". London: Observer.guardian.co.uk. http://observer.guardian.co.uk/foodmonthly/story/0,,1968666,00.html. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  3. ^ Toomey, Christine (28 March 2010). "What Ferran Adria is cooking up after El Bulli - Times Online". The Times (London). http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article7076517.ece. Retrieved 10 October 2010. 
  4. ^ Ferran Adrià - Bio of the World's Greatest Chef - El Bulli Restaurant Barcelona Spain
  5. ^ "Season 2010". Elbulli.com. http://www.elbulli.com/reservas/index.php?lang=en. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  6. ^ Palti, Michal. "www.haaretz.com, What about leftovers?". Haaretz.com. http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/993749.html. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  7. ^ www.greatchefs.com, Great Chefs Television?
  8. ^ Black, Jane (March 24, 2010). "Foam 101? Chefs Andrés, Adrià will teach at Harvard.". Washington Post. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/03/23/AR2010032300718.html. 
  9. ^ "Telefónica and Ferran Adrià sign an alliance to turn the new 'El Bulli' into the most creative and innovative lab in the world'". Saladeprensa.telefonica.com. http://saladeprensa.telefonica.com/jsp/base.jsp?contenido=/jsp/notasdeprensa/notadetalle.jsp&id=0&origen=portada&idm=eng&pais=1&elem=15566&titulo=Telef%F3nica%20and%20Ferran%20Adri%E0%20s. Retrieved 2010-10-14. 
  10. ^ "reuters.com, Spain kitchen spat boils over as top chef hits out". Reuters.com. 2008-06-17. http://www.reuters.com/article/lifestyleMolt/idUSL1738681920080617. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  11. ^ (AFP) – Jun 16, 2008 (2008-06-16). "afp.google.com, Spain's avant-garde chef Ferran Adrià hits back at critics". Afp.google.com. http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5gNUtgAfkMfStS2AxuWt6flLTZrbA. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  12. ^ Food for thought. Molecular gastronomy and the Christian God, Paul Levy, The Times Literary Supplement, January 15, 2010
  13. ^ "Albert y Ferran Adrià · Texturas". Albertyferranadria.com. http://www.albertyferranadria.com/eng/texturas-info.html. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  14. ^ "Xantana Texturas - Texturas - Albert & Ferran Adria (El Bulli)". BienManger.com. http://www.bienmanger.com/2F2835_Xantana_Texturas.html. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 
  15. ^ "Algin Texturas - Texturas - Albert & Ferran Adria (El Bulli)". BienManger.com. http://www.bienmanger.com/2F2426_Algin_Texturas.html. Retrieved 2010-10-02. 

External links